Tuesday, October 11, 2016

Clutch Play

I'm still waiting for my intake manifold gaskets--taking a little longer to arrive due to hurricane Matthew. Looking on my todo list I decided to finish up the clutch and brake pedals.

For the brake pedal I installed a new brake switch (the old one had a loose terminal) along with new bushings for the master cylinder pushrod. It was a real bear getting the retaining pin in place--definitely a lot easier working under the dash without the pedals and steering column in the way. After plugging in the new switch I spent some time organizing the wires that were hanging down under the dash. As much as I hated to, I even remounted the stock 5-circuit fuse block. Someday...

On the clutch pedal side I installed new bushings on the clutch rod and attached it to the clutch pedal. The z-bar had about 1/2" of side-play so I moved the end mounting bracket over, reducing the play to 1/8". Then came the hard part. When the headers were installed they interfered with the end of the clutch fork so someone hacked an inch off the end of the fork to provide clearance. The downside is that was where the spring for the equalizer rod attached. Without that spring the clutch fork can ride against the throw-out bearing, and even worse, the equalizer rod can fall out leaving the car undrivable. I attempted to drill a new hole for the spring, but the clutch fork is pretty beefy and there isn't much room to get a drill in the right place. The way the fork is stamped you can just hook the spring over the edge but I was afraid that it would slide off the end. So I whipped out my Dremel and ground a notch on the backside of the fork so the spring would have someplace to seat and wouldn't shift around. It's always under tension so I'm pretty certain it can't fall off. The spring seemed a little short to reach the z-bar and I felt like I was over-stretching it so I added in a stainless S-hook I had laying around. I also had to cut a slit for the end of the spring in the rubber boot covering the fork. The full-length fork would have extended through a slit in the end of the boot.


There's just under 1/4" clearance between the spring and the header so we'll see how it goes. If it rubs I'll have to grind another notch in the fork closer to the transmission. Before I put the spring on I adjusted the equalizer rod to have about 1/8" of play which gave me 7/8" play at the pedal. Cool.